K.U.R.K. proeft Riesling en Montus

Het was weer een mooi middagje en avondje KURK…..

De Duitstalige rieslings waren prachtig!

Montus is een geweldig domein waarbij het mij opviel dat er eigenlijk geen slecht jaar bestaat. Waarschijnlijk toch een te stabiel klimaat in het Zuid-Westen…..Bouscassé is toegankelijker dan de Montus en het lijkt er ook op dat Montus zonder problemen 25 jaar kan liggen…..de 90er had nog meer dan voldoende potentie…..

Hierbij mijn scores:

Riesling

Albert Duhr 2004 Luxemburg 91/100

Riesling Gebling Sepp Moser 2005 93/100

Alte Reben Thanisch 2006 86/100

Lowenstein Blauschiefer 2006 88/100

Volxem Rothschiefer 2007 93/100

A.J. Adam Hofberg Spatlese 2007 95+/100

Auslese Bernkastler Doctor Deinhardt 1983 88/100

Kees Kieren Graacher Domporst auslese*** 2005 98+/100 WAANZINNIG!

Eiswein Thanisch 2002 94/100

Montus

Montus Cuvee Prestige 1990 95/100

Montus Cuvee Prestige 1989 kurk

Montus 1996 95/100

Montus Cuvee Prestige 1995 93/100

Chateau Lagrezette 1998 94/100

Montus Cuvee Prestige 1998 94+/100

Bouscasse Vieilles Vignes 2000 95/100

Montus Cuvee Prestige 2000 96+/100

Montus 2002 91/100

Domaine de Chevalier 2003 93+/100

Montus Cuvee Prestige 2001 94++/100

Raymond Lafon 2001 97+/100

Hasta Luego

John die steenkapot was na een avondje “Madiran weghakken”

Nu in mijn glas Bouscassé 2004 en na twee dagen luchten beginnen de tannines wat zachter te worden… Wel mooi in potentie, maar ik zou ze nog een jaar of 4 wegleggen.

Verder las ik dit artikel op http://www.jancisrobinson.com

Brumont, Montus and Bouscassé

12 Mar 2009 by Richard Hemming

If mediocrity is one of wine's most cardinal sins, then Alain Brumont of Chx Montus and Bouscassé in deepest south west France is one of its saving graces. Not for his following some holy vinous creed, but for his saintly faith in the idiosyncrasies, the nuances and the plain weirdness that wine can have. Here was Tannat and Petit Corbu, untamed and un-tethered, full of character and variation. Screwball one moment, eloquent the next. Some intoxicating, some frankly ropey: but all genuine and honest wines - a quintessence of place and vintage and individuality - surely one of wine's most appealing doctrines. Amen to that.

From the Bouscassé estate, the Argile is a new (since 2001) plot of Tannat designed to be softer and more accessible, as signalled by its bright, funky label. Les Menhirs is a Tannat/Merlot blend, and hence only classified as a Vin de Pays. At Montus, La Tyre is a small plot of vines that rises steeply 80 metres of altitude between the bottom and top, where Brumont is convinced he has the best possible site for ripening Tannat. ‘XL’ is a Latinate reference to the number 40, that being the number of months this special selection of Montus is aged in barrel. Brumont's UK importers Thorman Hunt hosted the tasting, and provided the recommended UK retail prices as listed below. The wines are presented in tasting order, except for the last two reds, which were served after the sweet whites.

(This picture of bunches of Tannat grapes resting on the galets – the type of stones more often associated with some vineyards in Châteuneuf-du-Pape – was taken during the harvest in October. François Gigandet, Brumont’s commercial director, explains: ‘We leave the bunches of grapes on the rolled pebbles to keep them cool until they are taken to the winery for destemming and crushing. We use small baskets to collect the grapes to avoid crushing and oxidation. That may create a delay and sometimes we have no choice but to leave the grapes for a few hours on the soil and sometimes overnight. As the harvest is held in October, temperature is low, below zero at times, and no risk of oxidation.’)

DRY WHITES

Ch Bouscassé 2006 Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh Sec 17.5 Drink 2009-14

100% Petit Corbu. Tropical, dried apricot, vanilla, iodine and flint - a healthy mix of barrique, fruit and terroir. Medium bodied, fresh acidity, lengthy and with texture and weight on the palate, plus a shake of bitters on the finish. Complex and beautifully balanced. 14% (RH)

£10.75

Ch Bouscassé 2007 Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh Sec 16.5 Drink 2009-12

Grassy notes, mineral, green apple, lemon zest and earthiness. Dry, savoury fruit with a pure lemon and lime character plus freshly cut herbs. Can this really be the same wine as the 2006? It's totally different! 14% (RH)

£10.75

Ch Montus 2007 Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh Sec 18+ Drink 2011-17

Opulent creamy oak that barges out of the glass, followed by floral characters and a subtle tropical fruit; pineapple slices, melon and a drizzling of honey. Soft and potent on the palate, rich in flavour and kept honest by a zip-tooth acidity. The oak demands attention, yet allows an ethereal minerality to whistle at the finish: this is a grand cru equivalent. 15% (RH)

£20.50

Ch Montus 2000 Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh Sec 16 Drink 2009

First bottle was oxidised. Second was corked. Third was in good nick but still incredibly bizarre: very bronzed, mature, cheesy and musty. The freshness has long since gone, but it does hold a certain charm. 14% (RH)

Ch Montus 1999 Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh Sec 16.5 Drink 2009

Honeycomb, toffee, caramel, burnt sugar. The palate doesn’t quite fulfil its nasal destiny – nonetheless it is still alive, showing just enough freshness. 14% (RH)

REDS

Ch Bouscassé 2006 Madiran 16 Drink 2009-13

Pronounced, growling black fruit: so primary its almost primeval. There is a touch of mocha and cedar-wood on the finish. The tannin is supple and approachable. 13.5% (RH)

£15.25

Ch Bouscassé 2005 Madiran 16 Drink 2009-13

Rather shy nose; the tannin is firm and seems to bully the fruit somewhat. Very dry and not at all expressive at first, but on returning seems to be blossoming into a rather more fragrant bouquet. 14% (RH)

£16.25

Ch Bouscassé 2002 Madiran 16 Drink 2009-10

Leather, aniseed, dry and very savoury - the black fruit is dry and in retreat. Rustic. (RH)

£12

Ch Bouscassé, Argile 2006 Madiran 16+ Drink 2009-16

Freshly shaved wood, pure black cherry and blackberry jam. Broad fruit flavours, plus a toasted popcorn and dairy chocolate hint. Big and bold. 14% (RH)

£18.20

Ch Bouscassé, Les Menhirs 2006 Vin de Pays Côtes de Gascogne 16.5+ Drink 2011-16

Tightly wound nose, not giving much away; then a much juicier palate, with cherry, cocoa and leather. Very dense: drinkable now, but will reward some time in a cold dark place. 14% (RH)

£20.25

Ch Montus 2006 Madiran 16+ Drink 2012-16

Black fruit, pencils, anise and very strongly textured tannins. If this was a paint it would be matt black emulsion. Only one coat needed. 14.5% (RH)

£20

Ch Montus 2005 Madiran 15.5 Drink 2009-15

Dark, medicinal, heady and concentrated. Rubbery grip from the tannin, stingy on the fruit. 14.5% (RH)

£21.25

Ch Montus 2002 Madiran 16 Drink 2009-12

Tobacco, tea leaf, dark plum and blackcurrant. Dry, tannin that seems to just be coming in to line and nicely balanced though it's still a powerful mouthful. 14.5% (RH)

£16.50

Ch Montus, La Tyre 2006 Madiran 17 Drink 2009-19

Powerful, pungent black fruit and toasted marshmallow. Pure morello cherry fruit, baked spices, hazelnuts, blackcurrant, meat juice - lots to offer and plenty of hearty, balanced structure. 14.5% (RH)

£90-£100

Ch Montus, La Tyre 2005 Madiran 16.5+ Drink 2012-22

Powerful chalky tannin, dark, cooked black fruit - currant, plum and dark spice. Dense and barely penetrable. 15% (RH)

£90-£100

Ch Montus, La Tyre 2000 Madiran 16.5 Drink 2009-15

Sausage, leather, liquorice. Punky acidity, dark cakey fruit, chewy tannin, savoury and dense. Still very young-seeming. (RH)

Ch Montus, XL 1994 Madiran 16.5 Drink 2009-10

Fragrant, opulent, violet-scented nose - very ripe cherry, spicebox, earth and farmyard. On the palate - bizarrely sour after the slinky nose - the finish is puckered and meanly astringent. 12.5% (RH)

SWEET WHITES

Ch Bouscassé, Doux Vendémiaire 2005 Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh 17 Drink 2009-15

Crystallised ginger, orange marmalade, lemon sherbet. Cream and citrus, like a lemon pudding, wonderfully unctuous and lengthy. 12.5% (RH)

£11.50 (50cl)

Ch Bouscassé, Doux Brumaire 2006 Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh 18.5+ Drink 2009-16

Floral, orange blossom, honey on toast, stupendous length. The clarity of these toast, honey and mixed peel flavours is pure distilled delight. Phenomenal. 13.5% (RH)

£11.50 (50cl)

Wat kost die La Tyre een hoop pecunia!

Udo

Chris

Peter Z.

john

Udo

Udo